Journal #58 - Moldova

Bună ziua from Moldova! 

Getting here was one of our longest flights during this Odyssey. We traveled from the south of Africa to Chișinău, Moldova - and the arrival was shocking. Having just spent an extended stint in the summer heat, arriving mid-winter to blustery winds and snowfall was abrupt. Our poor bodies had to adjust quickly to the chilly conditions and so did our wardrobe. A shopping trip was necessary to acquire some vital layers.

With the additional support of knitwear, we explored the city with our breath streaming out in front of us and huddled figures bracing against the cold trudging beside us. Much of our neighborhood was filled with brutalist architecture and many figures in dark or muted colors; however, when we made it to open spaces like the walk around Morilor Park’s lake - things brightened up. The residents there were not shuffling, against the cold to their obligations, but rather strolling along. The sun happened to break through the grey swirl of overcast clouds exactly when we were by the water, brightening everyone’s mood.

It felt as though the park was designed for exactly this. It contained some of the prettiest attributes we saw within the city, including a cascading water feature and a mini-statue of The Little Prince that you can go hunting for. We both enjoyed ambling along and taking in this peaceful slice of the city.

In the countryside, we visited several historic and religious sights including Old Orhei. The bygone capital provided lots of fodder for our guide to explain Moldovan history. Her stories were filled with anecdotes of rulers and their mythology. We even stopped along the upper ridge to fully take in the protected valley. 

The archeological complex here contains a still-active church that we visited. It was set into the side of the rock, with residential chambers carved out of the stone. The religious core was lit with hundreds of candles and watched over by a sentry pulled from a storybook. The bent-over old man had a scruffy beard and sat in the corner reading his tome by candlelight, watching over the sanctity of the hall.  

Seeing as Moldova previously fell under the territory managed by the Soviet Union, our guides informed us that the population is rather proud of their religious freedom now. So we made a point of also visiting the Mănăstirea Curchi. This pink construction is eye-catching as you weave up the road towards it. It was quiet during our weekday visit, but that did not stop more devoted followers from appearing for prayers or blessings on their children. The inside was almost as brightly colored as the outer walls with vibrant paint, not yet dulled to time.  

Moldova has been a delightful transition for us, and we are so glad to have visited. We have packed up our bags though, and are now headed to the home of Vlad the Impaler and inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula. Any guesses where we are off to next?